Visiting Edinburgh is as close as a person can get to stepping into a gothic novel. The dark, medieval buildings at the city center jut out and command attention, contrasted by lush greenery. Gray clouds accentuate the scorched appearance of the Scott Monument. Even on warm days, sea fog called haar will sometimes spread over the shore.
The city is so striking, it’s hard to believe that the Princes Street Gardens at the heart of the city were once a swampy loch. Edinburgh Castle’s beautiful stonework is visible just above the gardens, overseeing the city. Even the so-called “New Town’’ neighborhood is still filled with rows of centuries-old Georgian terraced houses.
Edinburgh is immersive, completely unique and historical. Active travelers can hike the mountains bordering the city or bike the city’s hidden trails (particularly active travelers can tackle the scenic Forth and Clyde Canal paths), while more leisurely visitors can explore historical sites, boutiques, and more for next to no cost.
It’s also a relatively inexpensive trip for New Englanders, ripe for the picking while prices are down and before tourism increases. There’s hardly been a better time to travel to Scotland — Britain’s exit from the European Union has weakened the British pound, meaning your dollar will go further than it has in years. And a decade of appearances in film and television whet my appetite for the historic city, as it has for many others. There are also scores of new routes from Aer Lingus, Norwegian Air, and other airlines that are some of the cheapest ever.
Though the locale is most well-known for the Edinburgh Fringe Festival held every August, visitors who aren’t well-versed theater fans would benefit from bypassing the weeks-long events that drive up hotel prices. Edinburgh is not a large city and it’s unpleasant to imagine trying to jostle through hoards of people on the Royal Mile.
One of the pluses of being in the United Kingdom is that many museums in Edinburgh are free, including the National Gallery and the National Museum of Scotland. There are few reasons to pay to learn about Scottish history.
But if you want to step into an authentic historical site, skip Edinburgh Castle and walk to the other end of the Royal Mile. Admission to Holyrood Palace is five pounds cheaper than the Castle’s and tells a more thorough story of Edinburgh’s history and political turmoil. Mary, Queen of Scots, even preferred it to the Castle. Plus, it’s a true experience to exit the Palace and be struck with the beautiful scenery and looming mountains that will make your forget you’re in a city.
When you’re feeling tired of kings, queens, and battles, there are an abundance of quirky, fun, and inexpensive activities in Edinburgh. The Scottish Tourist Board maintains a calendar of free year-round activities on its website. On it, you’ll find historical, Harry Potter-themed or other walking tours that will only cost a pound or two in tips. There are thousands of both nostalgia-inspiring and nightmare-inducing toys on display at the Museum of Childhood or you can enjoy the fresh air in the Royal Botanic Gardens — both for free. If you hate museums, you’re not stuck inside your hotel when its raining.
Head into the newer parts of the city for cheaper eats and less touristy options. Most locals stay away from Old Town — the streets are crowded with people snapping photos, and many of the businesses boast the same fish and chips dishes or tartan scarves. (If you do want fish and chips, consider taking a short bus ride to the neighboring village of Portobello for better options.) The one place where my friend and I found a good meal and drinks in Old Town was deemed a “treat yourself meal’’ once we looked at the bill.
Popular restaurants like Cafe Royal and the Voodoo Room are hidden just off busy Princes Street. Many of the other oft-recommended cheap eateries in Edinburgh are peppered in the neighborhoods north and northeast of Old Town. Heading outside of tourist areas is generally a safe bet for good eats, and that rings true in Edinburgh.
One of the most popular questions I was asked before my trip was whether I was going to try haggis. I chickened out, but those who want to can do so without wasting their money on a full plate of it. Many of the breakfast shops offer haggis as an option on their breakfast rolls, as does the popular sandwich shop Oink with its pulled pork rolls.
Whether you’re an adventurous or tranquil traveler, Edinburgh has a lot to offer. Take advantage of it while the taking’s good.
Alison DeAngelis can be reached at allisonhdeangelis@gmail.com.
