IN THE KITCHEN Ghada and Samir Hannoush emigrated from Lebanon before opening their Uptowne Mediterranean in Shrewsbury in 1999. They began by offering a broader Mediterranean cuisine, but two years ago focused purely on Lebanese foods, partly to satisfy families who havesettled in the suburbs between Boston and Worcester. “When we opened, most people had no idea about Lebanese food. Now it’s becoming more popular,’’ said Ghada Hannoush. The cuisine is dominated by entrees made of beans, vegetables, lamb and chicken. All of the meals are made to order.
THE LOCALE The restaurant is fairly small, nothing too fancy. On the weeknight I visited, one large table held a group of teenage girls, another a family that had stopped for a meal. Soft Lebanese music was just audible. The restaurant is part of a Route 9 plaza anchored by the Christmas Tree Shops.
ON THE MENU Samir Hannoush greeted me at my table soon after I arrived. He was helpful in guiding me through some of the more popular choices, explaining how the foods were prepared and what ingredients were in the sauces. The meats are prepared according to Halal standards. Among the most popular dishes are the baba ghanoush ($6), an appetizer of roasted eggplant, tahini sauce, fresh garlic and lemon juice, served with pita bread. I chose another top attraction, the combo shawarma platter ($10.50), fragrant piles of shaved chicken and beef over a rice pilaf seasoned with turmeric. The meats are marinated in a special sauce, Ghada Hannoush said, and can be viewed in the kitchen on vertical spits. The shawarma comes with two sauces on the side: one made with fresh garlic and mayonnaise, and the other featuring tahini mixed with lemon juice. The second meal I took to go, the spicy lamb kabob ($12), happily lived up to its name. Served over the rice pilaf, it also came with a small Greek salad. The lamb is ground and spiced, then shaped into a tubular shape for grilling. I returned the following week to sample a bit more. The falafel platter appetizer ($6) has four falafel balls, made of ground chickpeas, cilantro, parsley, garlic, onions and cumin, deep fried, and served with a fresh pita and the tahini sauce on the side. This time I also tried one of two homemade desserts that were on display on the counter near the entrance. The baklava ($3.50) is made from rosewater, rather than honey. The restaurant also serves kenafeh ($5), a sweet cheese covered with shredded filo pastry, and topped with honey syrup, as well as katayef ($3.50), a crescent-shaped dough stuffed with either ricotta or a walnut mixture.
The restaurant does not serve beer or wine, but soft drinks and Snapple iced teas are available, as well as its own Turkish coffee ($2.50). The restaurant also offers American-style pub foods, including hamburgers, club sandwiches, and a variety of subs. It is open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner, through 9 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. It is closed on Sundays.
Uptowne Mediterranean, 1000 Boston Turnpike (Route 9), Shrewsbury, 508-842-4544, www.uptownedeli.com
Mary MacDonald can be reached at marymacdonald3@ aol.com.
