The first time you hear “island wine,’’ no one could blame you for imagining a tiki bar beverage. But the term commonly refers to pours hailing from islands in the Mediterranean, not the South Pacific. Some of the most lively and thirst-quenching examples come from a place called “l’isle de beaute’’ — the isle of beauty.
Corsica, the fourth-largest of the Mediterranean islands, lives up to its romantic nickname. Its dramatic mountains divide the land from northwest to southeast, and vegetation known as “maquis’’ blankets hillside slopes, spilling down to picturesque coastlines. Corsica’s situation north of Sardinia and 80 miles west of the Tuscan coast might lead you to think it’s part of Italy, but this is French territory. (Genoa ruled from roughly the late Middle Ages on through to the Corsican revolution in the 18th century, followed by French conquest by that century’s end.) Wine bottle labels provide a glimpse into the cultural and political tumult the island has experienced.
When you pick up a bottle, it’s common to wonder about its provenance. If you’re not a French speaker, the name “Corse’’ is not immediately recognizable as “Corsica.’’ Producer surnames sound Italian, and the Corsican language shows up in the names of red grapes like niellucciu (in Tuscany, sangiovese) and sciaccarellu (in central Italy, mammolo). Vermentino, the predominant white grape, and international varietals also thrive here. These pours are only found in modest supply in shops, so snap them up when you see them. These are distinctive wines, reflecting the care and tending of visionary winemakers on the island.
One of these producers is Domaine Maestracci, a family property located on a plateau inland from Calvi in the northwest. Patriarch Roger Maestracci purchased the property in the 1940s from the owner of an olive oil mill who relocated operations to Algeria, then a French colony. Maestracci transformed it into a thriving winery. Passed to his son-in-law, Michel Raoust, and now run by his daughter, vigneronne Camille-Anais Raoust, the operation makes a line of pours called “E Prove,’’ named for the sunny microclimate buffeted by maritime breezes. The blanc is a study in both precision and richness, with a telltale saline briskness that is easily associated with the nearby seaside.
If you can’t get to a Mediterranean coastline anytime soon, a flight of the imagination is aided by pairing these wines with native foodstuffs. The bottle from Maestracci, and two more delicious pours from other producers, pair beautifully with Corsican cheeses (we found an appealing array at Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge). A pungent washed-rind wheel called A Casinca, crafted from goat’s milk, accentuates fruit and grass notes of the Maestracci blanc. A tangy wedge of sheep’s milk cheese, Corsu Vecchiu, is appetizing with a Reine Courvil pinot noir. A rosé from Domaine Petroni is versatile with both, as well as almost anything else you might serve for a late summer repast.
Tote these pairings to your nearest picnic blanket. With a crusty loaf and an heirloom tomato salad, it’s easy to create your own little island of delight.
Domaine Maestracci “E Prove’’ 2015 Aromas of this gold-tinged vermentino are immediately appealing with ripe pear, white peach, and green herbs. A refreshing yet characterful weight with lively acidity and brisk saline, tree fruit flavors, and some welcome anchoring bitterness. Around $23. Available at The Wine Bottega, North End, 617-227-6607; Formaggio Kitchen, Cambridge, 617-354-4750.
Domaine Petroni 2015 Nowhere on the label does it say rosé, but you can’t mistake it for anything else in its clear glass bottle. This perky pink (mostly niellucciu and sciaccarellu with a splash of grenache) offers freshness that reminds you of sea spray. Stony mineral and that tinge of the ocean lead, with peach and a citric edge of appetizing bitterness. Around $15. At Medfield Wine Shoppe, Medfield, 508-359-4097; Martignetti Liquors, Brighton, 617-782-3700.
Reine Courvil Pinot Noir 2014 This is our $12 gem of the summer. Day-bright in the glass and high-toned on the nose, this is a lovely expression of pinot noir. It offers scents of bing cherry and blue floral supported by a whisper of potpourri and mineral. A berry-cherry palate, winsome in weight, perfect with a slight chill. Around $12. At Pemberton Farms, Cambridge, 617-491-2244; Social Wines, South Boston, 617-268-2974.
Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.
