It’s just a small section of Toronto, but the Distillery District is an impressive example of how a major city repurposed a former industrial site to create a dramatic integration of old and new, sophisticated and accessible. Rather than a designated shopping area anchored by major chains that feels contrived and commercial, the 47 buildings of the former Gooderham and Worts Distillery (located at 55 Mill St., near the city’s waterfront) is a seamless mix of retail shops, restaurants, cafes, living space, art studios, galleries, and the Young Centre for the Performing Arts. As you stroll the district’s connected cobblestone paths, you can almost see horse-drawn carts, gas lamps, and peddlers. The Dickensian brick smokestacks and granite structures coupled with quaint storefronts and wafting smells from bakeries ooze Victorian-era charm.
Once the largest distiller of alcoholic beverages in Canada, the Gooderham and Worts Distillery opened in 1832 and closed in 1990. After 10 years in the planning, Toronto’s Distillery Historic District opened in 2003. Tradesmen and craftsmen had input into the re-design and restoration process, incorporating 19th century industrial architecture with modern (often eco-friendly) construction for a result that blends preservation with practical style. The district feels like a small village; besides retail shops and eateries housed in spaces of rustic, old world charm, there are outdoor patios at nearly all the restaurants and central areas where stages are erected for concerts and performances.
The district is open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Monday-Wednesday; to 8 p.m. on Thursday-Friday and 11-6 on Sunday. On a recent visit, I shopped in the late afternoon and had a memorable early dinner at Boka Sushi. (I highly recommend the Distillery Roll.) On the following day, a light breakfast and coffee at Cluny Bistro was so good that I returned for an exquisite dinner. There are lively scenes at the popular Mexican eatery El Catrin; the Mill Street Brewery; Balzac Coffee; and Tap Wine Bar and Restaurant, among others.
The district’s unique shops are a magnet for visitors. Made in Canada is the theme for much of the merchandise, created by local artisans and designers. Hoi Bo sells stylish comfort clothing made by hand in-house; Jessica Rose is a chic womenswear boutique of clothes made in Toronto; Corktown Designs owner Robyn Berman, an interior designer, travels the world for the gorgeous handbags, wallets, watches, and jewelry in her store; Blackbird Vintage Finds is the perfect place to pick up one-of-a-kind gifts or kitschy vintage Canada postcards; and who can resist the back-in-time appeal of The Saucy Milliner which offers the “custom creation of the finest millinery in all manner of ladies hats.’’
If you’re heading to Toronto before Dec. 22, you’re in luck. The Distillery District will host the seventh annual Christmas Market Nov. 18 to Dec 22, an event that re-creates traditional European Christmas markets that date back to the early 1400s. A 52-foot white spruce tree, decorated with more than 18,000 lights and ornaments and donated by Forests Ontario, a not-for-profit organization dedicated to the renewal and stewardship of Ontario’s forests, dominates the center of the district, which teems with holiday displays, family-friendly activities, and entertainment.
The Toronto Christmas Market also features unique gift items from around the world, heated outdoor beer and mulled-wine gardens, and outdoor food vendors offering everything from classic Quebec poutine to hot grilled cheese sandwiches on artisan breads to wienerschnitzel sandwiches.
For more information, go to www.TorontoChristmasMarket.com or www.thedistillerydistrict.com.
Loren King can be reached at loren.king@comcast.net.
