At Pabu, Boston’s poshest izakaya from chefs Michael Mina and Ken Tominaga, guests often ask about the kama, or fish collar. How is it different from the usual fillet? “It’s full of natural fats that melt, so it’s succulent and juicy,’’ shares general manager Linchul Shin. “It’s like a steak that’s well-marbled.’’ Taken from just behind the gills of a yellowtail or similar fish, that collar is brushed with a watermelon reduction, then grilled over binchotan charcoal that burns cooler and longer than the backyard barbecue variety. The delicacy is served with crunchy watermelon rind kimchi and chunks of the fruit doused with honeyed rice vinegar. The summery dish is excellent with a 2015 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Ürziger Würzgarten, Riesling Kabinett, from Germany’s Mosel ($16 a glass, $80 a bottle). “It offers a bouquet of ripe white fruits like white peach,’’ says Shin of the pour, which offers a hint of sweetness. The wine’s acidity performs beautifully between bites. “It keeps the palate fresh,’’ he enthuses.

Pabu, Millennium Tower, 3 Franklin St., Boston, Downtown Crossing, 857-327-7228, www.michaelmina.net

ELLEN BHANG