PARSNIP

A sophisticated newcomer that has yet to decide whether to cast off or embrace the shadow of its bohemian predecessor, UpStairs on the Square. Parsnip is all neutral tones, abstract art, sleek marble, and hardwood floor, and the menu is a frequently changing work in progress. Some dishes are quite good, others too restrained. But the lush, inviting upstairs lounge is where the restaurant releases its inner verve. Pictured: roasted cauliflower with cumin brulee. (Stars not issued for this review.) 91 Winthrop St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-714-3206, www.parsniprestaurant.com (2/10/16) SACHA PFEIFFER

BRANCH LINE

Boston restaurateur Garrett Harker branches — get it? — into the suburbs at Watertown’s Branch Line. The uncommonly satisfying, vaguely Mediterranean menu centers on a redemptive rotisserie chicken but excels far beyond the bird. Buoyed by inventive sides, small plates, and carefully curated beer and wine selections, it’s already a hit. (Stars not issued for this review.) 321 Arsenal St., Watertown, 617-420-1900, www.branchlinearsenal.com (2/3/16)

NESTOR RAMOS

LA MOTTA’S ITALIAN SPECIALTIES

Pitched as a midcentury red-sauce restaurant in the style of Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, La Motta’s serves traditional Old World fare, and a mix of more-modern Mediterranean iterations, in a stylish, cozy setting. (Stars not issued for this review.) 1357 Washington St., South End, Boston, 617-338-5300, www.lamottaboston.com (1/27/16)

JANELLE NANOS

DORETTA TAVERNA & RAW BAR

On Park Plaza, chef Michael Schlow goes hearty Greek in what was once refined Italian (Via Matta). This time it’s a family affair, a nod to his Greek-American wife’s roots. Warm lights and big art (his wife’s creations) frame classic dishes in modern terms, though uneven mezze veer from thoroughly satisfying to unexpectedly disappointing. The altar (or bar) at the center of the room, however, never errs. (Stars not issued for this review.) 79 Park Plaza, Boston, 617-422-0008, www.dorettaboston.com (1/20/16) TED WEESNER

THE BALDWIN BAR ???

Cocktail superstar Ran Duan took over the bar program at his parents’ Woburn restaurant, Sichuan Garden II, in 2009, opening the Baldwin Bar. In October, he added the Baldwin & Sons Trading Company, a soigne upstairs lounge. A world-class cocktail bar inside a Sichuan restaurant inside a historic mansion in the suburbs: Rather unlikely. Very wonderful. 2 Alfred St., Woburn, 781-935-8488, www.thebaldwinbar.com (12/16/15) DEVRA FIRST

YVONNE’S ??½

This used to be Locke-Ober, where politicians and power brokers rubbed elbows over steak dinners. Now it is Yvonne’s, featuring small plates and a sexy atmosphere. It is — once again — the place to be. Well-made cocktails, meaty platters designed for sharing, and boozy takes on classic ice cream treats?are among the attractions. 2 Winter Place, Downtown Crossing, Boston, 617-267-0047, www.yvonnesboston.com (12/2/15) D.F.