Where to The Burlington outpost of Kenmore Square seafood hit Island Creek Oyster Bar, overseen by chef Jeremy Sewall, Island Creek Oysters founder Skip Bennett, prolific restaurateur Garrett Harker, and partner Shore Gregory.
What for Bivalves and other raw bar delicacies; oceanic appetizers; various presentations of lobster; and one monstrous buttermilk biscuit.
The scene Suburban sleek. This version of Island Creek Oyster Bar anchors a new neighborhood called The District, slick with office parks and new construction. Just the same, the restaurant feels cozy, what with soft lighting, a soothing tannish-and-gray palette, and walls lined with oyster shells. Families gather in the roomy dining room; iPad-wielding toddlers frolic tableside; pals catch up over goblets of wine. In the front bar area, cashmere-clad office dudes sit at high-top tables and hoist beers.
What you’re eating Sewall’s menu mirrors the Boston version, and why mess with success? You’ll find a variety of crudo, shellfish, and oysters — and servers editorialize with finesse about each, declaring some “cucumber-y’’ and others “meaty.’’ (Many come from Island Creek’s Duxbury oyster farm.) Appetizers include a deep-battered oyster slider, salt cod croquettes, mussels, and crab cakes. Lobster lovers can order bisque, a roll, or roe noodles swirled with mushrooms, short ribs, and pecorino cheese, a naughty indulgence. Fish entrees change regularly, though seafood casserole is a mainstay. There are fried things too, of course, like clams and a fish sandwich. Those who prefer their sustenance from dry land can find a burger, strip steak, and a wealth of sides — including a sticky buttermilk biscuit, big as a birthday cake.
Care for a drink? Get the potent Snug Harbor Smash, made with house rum, or engage in educated discourse with your server over wine or beer (they’ll gladly bring tastes). Those in need of immediate numbing can order a glass of Narragansett beer with a shot of rye for a mere $10.
Overheard Job gripes, cocktail cravings, cigarette statuses. “It was like working in ‘The Devil Wears Prada’!’’ says a well-dressed woman to a table of chums, who nod knowingly. “I want something soft and warm, like a cider, but with more alcohol,’’ a woman purrs to her server. “You can trust me with your order,’’ her waitress purrs back. “Distilling is so hard to keep up with these days,’’ a tan-trousered fellow tells his bar companion. “I haven’t smoked since I last had a beard,’’ another guy confesses. “We were going to hire an architect for our reno, but hey! Now we’re just guessing as we go!’’ a resigned man tells his mates.
Island Creek Oyster Bar, 300 District Ave., Burlington, 781-761-6500, www.islandcreekoysterbar.com
Kara Baskin can be reached at kcbaskin@gmail.com.
