TOPSFIELD — At the Topsfield Fair, the New England institution that dates back more than 200 years and is known for its novelty foods, a culinary tour might well prompt an existential question: “Why did I do this to myself?’’
The deep-fried peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwich tasted like a combination of sandpaper and butter. Carys Evans, 11, said her deep-fried Milky Way bar tasted like “french fries dipped in chocolate,’’ two things she enjoyed separately but quickly realized she was not fond of in tandem. The less said about the three-layer chili parfait and the deep-fried Twinkie bar, the better.
Yet it was the bacon stand that truly encapsulated the gluttonous, calorie-laden spirit of the fair. Throughout the day Monday, droves of families from across the state flocked to the one-of-a-kind stand, where patrons could enjoy such delicacies as bacon covered in s’mores, bacon dipped in maple syrup, and a bacon-covered grilled cheese sandwich.
No matter that the thick flavors of marshmallow and chocolate drowned out any hints of bacon, or that the grilled cheese was, sadly, lacking in cheese. People were paying for an experience, and it was an experience they received.
“You know, as I eat it, it continues to get better,’’ said Jackie Puglia, of Stoneham. She had just paid a few bucks for chocolate-covered bacon-on-a-stick.
Her husband, Chris, had a ready explanation.
“Bacon is the secret to life,’’ he said before placing his order. “I live by that.’’
Tiger Stockbridge, of Dorchester, heard Puglia’s adage and countered with one of his own. “Bacon makes everything better,’’ he declared.
This is not how the Topsfield Fair began. In 1818, the Essex Agricultural Society received a charter to “promote and improve the agricultural interests of farmers and others in Essex County,’’ according to fair organizers. For nearly a century, the agricultural society held a cattle show, but since 1910, it has held an annual gathering at its current location at the Topsfield Fairgrounds.
Today, many attendees are fair veterans, such as Wakefield residents Christina Nardone and Matthew McConnell, who boast more than a decade of consecutive attendance. There are relative newcomers, too, including Gisele Bundchen, Massachusetts’ favorite supermodel (and wife of Patriots quarterback Tom Brady), who attended the fair Saturday afternoon.
“I just love the fall. I love the animals. And I love the food,’’ Nardone said as she ate her favorite Topsfield treat, a sandwich with turkey, mayonnaise, stuffing, and cranberry sauce. She had just bought one for herself and another for McConnell. At the stand for the sandwich, called the “Gobbler,’’ signs encouraged fairgoers to “gobble till you wobble.’’
Couldn’t agree more, McConnell said.
“You just come here to eat,’’ he said. “You just gorge and gorge and then regret it come tomorrow.’’
Such splurging, however admirable, could add up.
A $15 admission ticket allows entrance to the fairgrounds, but each food item is sold separately. Similar to the fried candy bars, a parfait of chili, cornbread, and sour cream cost $7.75, a giant turkey leg cost $10, and a foot-long hot dog cost $5 — the same price as a root beer float. With admission and one assuredly unhealthy meal, a family of four could spend upwards of $100, not counting any small roller-coaster rides or paid attractions.
Despite the cost, families flocked to the fairground Monday, romping about in the crisp autumn breeze.
“We come once a year, and the turkey legs are always our first stop,’’ said Amy Evans, of Chelmsford. Her 9-year-old son, Zachary, was chomping down next to her, yanking at the meat as if he had just discovered fire.
“He’s been talking about this for days,’’ Evans said.
Zachary had a long way to go before he finished the giant slab of turkey, but remained confident in his abilities. He finished the leg last year, and now he was an ultra-hungry 9-year-old, a whole year older and wiser.
“It’s good,’’ Zachary said, mouth full of turkey. “It tastes like ham. That’s a good thing.’’
Later, across the campgrounds, another parent was dealing with the trials of appeasing young taste buds. Claudio Peca, of Beverly, had just ordered a deep-fried 3 Musketeers bar for his two children, Braeden and Luke.
Luke, a 5-year-old who loves trucks, also loved the fried candy bar. But 8-year-old Braeden wouldn’t even take a bite.
“Ew!’’ she proclaimed loudly.
Her father laughed it off.
“We love the food, love the rides,’’ Peca said. “I just love all of it, really.’’
Clearly, he had not tried the PB&J.
Astead W. Herndon can be reached at astead.herndon@globe.com.
