IN THE KITCHEN The co-owners of Art House Grille in Framingham are brothers Leonid Zislin, who is the restaurant’s chef, and Igor Kukles, who also serves as manager. Zislin graduated from culinary school in Israel after leaving his home in the former Soviet Union and moved to the United States in 2000. “Opening this restaurant was his dream come true,’’ said Kukles, who came to this country 27 years ago. They previously owned a Russian supermarket on Route 9 in Framingham, which they sold last year.
THE LOCALE Art House Grille, which opened in June 2015 and seats between 50 and 70, is on Water Street in Framingham’s Saxonville neighborhood. By day, it’s a breakfast and lunch spot; in the evenings, it often serves private banquet-style meals reflecting Zislin’s global kitchen experience. “It’s a local community restaurant, a very family-oriented place,’’ Kukles said.
The restaurant’s name reflects the colorful, ever-changing decor on its walls. “The idea is for local artists to show their work here,’’ Kukles said. “Some are retired, and for them it’s a hobby, and some are professional artists and photographers.’’ It’s a win-win: free interior design for the owners, and free promotion for the artists, some of whom have sold their works exhibited in the restaurant.
ON THE MENU “When we opened the restaurant, we never thought of it as a Russian restaurant,’’ Kukles said. Yet the menu does reflect the brothers’ roots in a section dedicated to “Eastern European specialties’’ — many of which are accompanied by a large ramekin of sour cream. They include cheese pancakes ($9) stuffed with farmers cheese and raisins, homemade crepes (or blintzes) served with Nutella or dulce de leche or curled around sweet farmers cheese and sour cherries or blueberries($8). We ordered the dulce de leche version and relished slathering the sweet, luscious concoction across the paper-thin crepes, and gobbled down the accompanying freshly cut fruit salad.
Other items might be more familiar to the typical American’s breakfast palate. The restaurant serves several types of omelets, each made with three organic eggs and replete with such fillings as spinach, tomato, sausage, corned beef hash, and various cheeses ($8 to $10), and served with toast and home fries. There is a traditional eggs Benedict ($10) with Canadian bacon and homemade hollandaise sauce, and more gussied-up versions that complement the poached eggs with smoked salmon or tomato and avocado for vegetarians ($11).
Two giant, fluffy buttermilk pancakes ($8) showered with powdered sugar come with whipped cream, maple syrup, and a fruit cup on the side (fresh blueberries or chocolate chips can be added for 99 cents) while challah French toast ($8) is soaked in milk and butter and grilled. We ordered the latter but were initially served the former — and were quickly and kindly given French toast at no added charge.
The lunch menu hews to Eastern European dishes as well, including Russian-style meat ravioli ($7) and blintzes filled with meat or mushrooms ($6). We were drawn to the Polish-style pierogi ($6) — potato dumplings shaped into dense, delicious half-moons, strewn with caramelized onions, and nicely accented by a dollop of sour cream.
Among the international entrees, Kukles recommends the restaurant’s marinated chicken and lamb kabobs ($10 to $12) and the Art House grilled chicken breast topped with asparagus, bacon, and hollandaise sauce ($12). Looking for a good old-fashioned American dish? There are also regular, cheese, and mushroom burgers ($9 to $10). But if you visit, try to sample the Eastern European side of the menu for a welcome twist on your typical weekend brunch.
Art House Grille is at 62 Water St., Framingham; 508-788-7700, arthousegrille.com. Tuesday through Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Rachel Lebeaux can be reached at rachel_lebeaux@yahoo.com.
