Where The Hourly Oyster House, located in a 19th century Harvard Square bank building that was home to Herrell’s Ice Cream for nearly three decades.
What for Eight varieties of oysters, four lobster entrees, chilled shellfish towers, and a bevy of seafood dishes. This is the sixth restaurant from the Grafton Group and its fourth in Harvard Square. Fun fact: Underground tunnels connect the kitchens of the Hourly and sister restaurant Russell House Tavern. The name is a nod to the horse-drawn carriages, known as “hourlies,’’ that once departed from the area every hour for Boston.
The scene A mix of arty couples in bold glasses and funky hats, students with their parents, and tourists wearing backpacks. The lighting is low and lovely, with a cool-pop soundtrack and walls covered with subway tiles, antique mirrors, and black-and-white pictures of ships and bearded sea captains with pipes. Big windows look out at the mammoth Harvard construction project across the street and a steady stream of customers at Mike’s Pastry next door.
What you’re eating Oysters, of course, including local favorites from Duxbury, Plymouth, Cotuit, Cuttyhunk Island, and Katama Bay, along with chilled crab claws, clams, shrimp, and lobster tail. Seafood dishes range from old-fashioned classics such as clams casino and Crab Louis to more adventurous fare such as tuna poke and whole-roasted bronzino. Lobster lover? Try it in spaghetti, in a pie, on a roll, or stuffed with corn bread. For those not in a seafood mood, there’s steak, a burger, three-cheese tortellini, and a roasted half-chicken (we assume it’s not “half-roasted,’’ as the menu states). To start, guests are served compelling homemade salt and vinegar chips; on the way out, don’t overlook the taffy from nearby Cabot’s Candy.
Care for a drink? Dozens of beers and ciders and a plentiful offering of whites, roses, and sparkling wines that go well with seafood. Three of the six cocktails feature prosecco, because a little bit of bubbly helps the oysters go down in a truly delightful way.
Overheard Talk of Donald Trump, college selection, and aging. A group of guys at a corner table warns a waitress, “On your 30th birthday, you’ll wake up and be like, what is this?’’ Several staffers talk politics behind the bar: “Have you seen those ads that say ‘Make Mexico Great Again’?’’ Over by the TV, blissfully and unobtrusively tucked into a corner, a father and his high-school-age son watch a college football game and chat up the bartender: “They have a great lacrosse program, which means it’s harder to get on the team.’’ A woman in flannel asks for the channel to be changed to the Cubs-Giants game; when the bartender indicates the father and son have dibs, the woman proposes a friendly contest: “I’ll rock-paper-scissors you in 20 minutes.’’
15 Dunster St., Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-765-2342, www.thehourlycambridge.com.
Katie Johnston can be reached at katie.johnston@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @ktkjohnston.
