Serves 4

You can coax a full-flavored broth out of blanched beef bones, but a roast duck from Chinatown gives you a huge head start. Traditionally rubbed and roasted with five-spice, the duck comes already infused with some of the important spices you’d add to pho, including star anise, cinnamon, and clove. If you’ve handled a rotisserie chicken before, you can handle a roast duck. Look for the little plastic cup of sauce included with the bird: These duck drippings are liquid gold, and something chefs spend hours trying to create. This all-natural flavor booster will amp your simple stock way, way up.

The restaurant will offer to cut up the duck for you. The easiest answer is yes, as it saves you a bit of work. If you want to fuss over presentation more, and you want to top the bowls with big, sexy slices of duck breast, break the bird down yourself and then whack the carcass into eight parts before adding it to the pot. It comes with a head. That’s a good thing — throw it in the pot with the bones.

You’re also going to add blanched chicken wings. These gelatin-rich, flavor-packed bits of skin and bone will give depth and body to your pho. If you happen to have any broth left over and chill it overnight, you’ll see it gel. The gelatin and fat are what give an otherwise thin broth its viscosity, texture, and base notes. Note: If buying a roast duck is just not an option, get a large rotisserie chicken and increase the wings in the recipe from 1 pound to 1½ pounds. Use the drippings at the bottom of the container instead of the duck drippings.

For garnishing, get the freshest bean sprouts you can find, bought the day you’re using them or certainly no more than one day before. They should be snow white. If you can’t find Thai basil, substitute mint rather than Italian basil; it is closer to the flavor you’re looking for. If you can’t find Thai bird chiles, use thinly sliced red Fresno or jalapeno chiles instead. Other garnishing options might include crisp fried shallots, torn sawtooth herb, or even some seared foie gras if you’re feeling decadent.

BROTH

2 medium Spanish onions, peeled and halved

1 3-inch piece fresh ginger

1 pound chicken wings, halved with a cleaver

1 roast duck, plus drippings

1 star anise

½ cinnamon stick

½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns

½ teaspoon whole coriander seed

3 cloves

1 teaspoon Chinese rock sugar (or light brown sugar)

1 teaspoon fish sauce (Red Boat or Three Crabs are recommended), plus more to taste

Salt, to taste

1. Directly over a gas burner, set a wire rack. On the rack, arrange the onions, cut side down, and the ginger root. Over high heat, char ingredients thoroughly on both sides. Set aside.

2. Meanwhile, in a pot large enough to hold them, place the chicken wings and cover by 1 inch with cold water. Over high heat, bring to a boil and simmer hard for 1 minute. Drain wings in a colander, and rinse off every bit of scum.

3. From the cut-up duck, pull chunks of meat. You should have a total of about 3 cups. Set meat aside and tent with foil to keep warm. Reserve any large pieces of skin for garnish. In a large pot, put the remaining meaty duck bones and skin, chicken wings, and charred onions and ginger. Do not wipe away or remove any of the charred bits — they contribute flavor to the broth. Add 6 quarts of water to the pot.

4. In a dry skillet over medium-high heat, toast the star anise, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, coriander seeds, and cloves for 1 minute or until aromatic, tossing once or twice. Add the spices, rock sugar, and 1 teaspoon fish sauce to the pot. Over high heat, bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 2 hours, or until the stock is robust and flavorful. Strain into a clean pot and return to a simmer. Taste for seasoning, and add duck drippings, salt, and fish sauce, if you like.

GARNISH PLATE

12 ounces bean sprouts

12 healthy sprigs Thai basil, washed in ice-cold water and shaken dry

4 Thai bird chiles, each pierced twice with a knife

½ lime, halved horizontally then vertically, to make 4 wedges

Sriracha (for serving)

Hoisin sauce (for serving)

1. On a plate, arrange the bean sprouts, Thai basil, chiles, and lime wedges.

2. Set in the center of the table along with the bottle of sriracha and a small bowl of hoisin sauce so everyone can help themselves.

PHO

1 pound medium-width rice vermicelli

4 tablespoons cilantro leaves, sliced thin

2 large scallions, sliced thin

1. About 30 minutes before serving, fill a large pot or bowl with cold water and soak the rice noodles.

2. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the soaked noodles and cook for 1 minute, or until just cooked through. Drain and divide evenly among four large bowls. Divide the reserved duck meat, cilantro, and scallions among the four bowls. Ladle hot duck broth to fill each bowl, garnish with reserved duck skin, and serve. Alison E. Hearn

Alison E. Hearn can be reached at alisonehearn@gmail.com.