WHO’S IN CHARGE Having grown up in Guadalajara, Mexico, owner Jose Brambila knows his Mexican food. Sometimes he cooks, sometimes he waits tables or bartends.
“I’m OK working hard,’’ said Brambila, who recently turned 50.
Before moving to Massachusetts, Brambila ran a taquería in Northern California. Before that, he helped his brother run a full-serve Mexican restaurant in Spokane, Wash.
Brambila lives in Lexington with his wife and three children. About 10 years ago he opened an Ixtapa there. He opened the Woburn restaurant a year after that. His cousin, Eric Brambila, owns and operates Ixtapa locations in Lunenberg, Acton, and Groton. The family added a sixth location in Watertown last year.
THE LOCALE The Ixtapa Mexican Grill & Cantina in Woburn — named for the beach resort area in Mexico — is a beacon of color with its yellow-and-orange textured walls, Mexican tiles, and decorations, including a Corona-toting parrot that hangs from the ceiling. The full bar has a dozen or so seats and a few high tops. The carpeted dining room is lined with booths and has tables and chairs.
We were warmly greeted and seated in a booth. A server promptly took our drink order and brought a basket of crispy tortilla chips and a mild tomato salsa. The salsa was nicely seasoned, but we favored the jalapeno-spiked pico de gallo, a taco condiment.
Ixtapa is just as family-friendly as it is popular for date night. A couple shared a pitcher of margaritas poured into cactus-stemmed glasses, while families of four or more squeezed into the booths. Servers walked through the dining room with platters of heaping food and sizzling fajitas, smoke trailing behind them. With the bill, they brought takeout containers.
“I’m still working on it,’’ is a common patron refrain.
ON THE MENU The menu itself is a multipage guide to popular Mexican fare, including nachos, salads, soups, fajitas, burritos, chimichangas, enchiladas, quesadillas, steaks, seafood, combos, vegetarian options, and tacos. A smaller menu lists drinks and desserts. Negra Modelo and Dos Equis are on tap.
The house margarita, served on the rocks or frozen (mine was on the rocks), had a nice tang with freshly squeezed lime.
The fish tacos and the carnitas (pork) tacos, served three to a platter with refried beans and Spanish rice and condiments, are favorites. The soft corn tortilla cradled the talapia, the white “salsa’’ of mayonnaise, cilantro, lime, and other spices added kick and the cabbage added a refreshing crunch. The carnitas — savory pork chunks — dazzled with the bold pico de gallo.
We also loved the Ixtapa shrimp (pictured), fresh, butterflied, and sautéed, arranged with sautéed red and green bell peppers, onions, and mushrooms over buttery white rice, with melted cheese garnished with lettuce, tomato, sour cream, and avocado. While the burrito was bountiful with ground beef, we preferred to spend our calories on the shrimp and the tacos and save some for dessert.
“You like sweet?’’ asked the server. “Yes.’’ So, he brought the creamy-rich caramel flan. We would say, “Yes’’ again.
When the bill came (modest for the portions), so did the takeout containers . . . and lunch for the next few days.
Ixtapa Mexican Grill & Cantina, 349 Main St., Woburn. 781-759-1250, ixtapacantina.com.
Naomi Kooker can be reached at naomikooker@gmail.com.
