Serves 4

You say flour, I say corn. You say spicy, I say mild. Is this a house divided or the anatomy of a marriage? The point is moot, but it proves how versatile this handy snack is, elevated here to supper fare. You can vary the type of tortilla, bean, and cheese to your liking. Serve it with some juicy peach salsa. Poblano chiles are mostly mild, but take a little taste and adjust the amount if they are too hot for you. Or, if the salsa isn’t spicy enough, tip in a few tablespoons of the jalapeno brine.

QUESADILLAS

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ small onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 can (15 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained

¼ cup water (or more if needed)

8 (7- to 8-inch) flour tortillas

2 cups cooked corn kernels cut from the cob (about 3 ears)

¼ cup sliced pickled jalapenos (nacho style)

8 ounces Monterey jack or muenster cheese, grated

½ cup packed cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

1. Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand 2 rimmed baking sheets.

2. In a skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the onion, garlic, oregano, cumin, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally for 5 minutes, or until the onions are soft. Add the beans and water and cook until hot. With a potato masher or a large spoon, coarsely mash the beans. Add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the beans become dry.

3. Set a large skillet over medium-high heat, and heat until hot. One by one, heat the tortillas: Add a tortilla to the hot skillet and cook for about 30 seconds, or until you see little puffed pockets of air on top and the bottom is brown in spots. Turn and cook for another 15 seconds. Transfer to a plate and continue to heat the tortillas, stacking them on the plate as you heat them.

4. Place 2 tortillas on each baking sheet. On each of the 4 tortillas, spread ¼ of the beans. Spread ½ cup corn over the beans on each tortilla. Dot each with 2 to 4 pickled jalapeno pieces, to taste. Spread ¼ of the grated cheese on top. Sprinkle with cilantro leaves and top each with one of the remaining tortillas.

5. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until heated through and the cheese is melted. Cut into quarters and serve with the peach salsa.

SALSA

2 medium peaches, cut into small dice

½ poblano pepper, seeded and cut into small dice

2 tablespoons finely diced red onion

Juice of 2 limes

1 tablespoon white vinegar

Salt and pepper, to taste

½ cup packed cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

1. In a bowl, combine the peaches, poblano, onion, lime juice, vinegar, salt, pepper, and cilantro.

2. Chill until ready to serve. Serve alongside quesadillas. Sally Pasley Vargas

Sally Pasley Vargas can be reached at sally.p.vargas@gmail.com.