Knowing next to nothing about the intricacies of NFL football, I met with Dan Noonan, former sous chef at Hamersley’s Bistro and avid Pats fan, to get his take on the AFC Championship game. I always learn something listening to him break down a game, and I wanted to hear his sage explanation as to why we lost. With that familiar flicker of devilish humor in his eyes, he said, “We didn’t make enough plays, in all three phases of the game, to win.’’ Hmmm, where have I heard that insightful kind of analysis before?
Anyway, being chefs, we started talking Super Bowl food and the conversation turned into a good old-fashioned menu collaboration meeting. I wanted to take an Italian approach with chicken wings for Sunday’s party, and as usual with chicken I was thinking garlic, lemon, parsley, and herbs. Of course, the standard way with wings is the deep fat fryer, and if you wish you can use that method to good effect. But I think roasting actually does a better job, keeps the diminutive wings plump and juicy, and is cleaner tasting than cooking in hot oil. Coating the wings with flour and cornstarch before roasting makes them nice and crispy, and fitting a wire rack on top of a sheet pan ensures even cooking.
Just before you’re ready to serve the wings, make the flavored butter: Add garlic and crushed red pepper flakes to sizzling butter, then stir in herbs and lemon. You’d think it might make the skin on the chicken wings soggy but it doesn’t. The wings burst with flavor and the skin stays nice and crisp. A sprinkle of sea salt is essential at the end.
Now, what to serve with them? We both agreed hot sauce was out of the question. A flavored mayonnaise would have worked, but I wanted it to be a tad healthy. Dan suggested a broccoli rabe pesto, not so much as a dipping sauce but more something robust and savory to slather on the wings as you eat them. Brilliant idea.
Dan’s pesto recipe is a bit unconventional. Blanching the rabe is the key to removing some but not all of its intrinsic bitterness. Start with lots of salt in the water and cook the rabe until it turns vivid green and is barely tender. Then shock it in ice water to stop the cooking process, and make sure the rabe is well drained by pressing it hard against the side of a colander before proceeding. Roughly chopping the rabe first by hand makes the work of the processor faster and easier. Toasted pistachios add a touch of nutty sweetness, and Dan calls for Dijon mustard — not terribly Italian, but it adds a zesty tang that complements the wings perfectly.
Keeping suitably nourished during the Super Bowl is something Americans take seriously. Football fans love all sorts of chili; devour gooey, cheese-laden concoctions; and will dive into most anything that contains pork in its various guises. These chicken wings are not only super tasty, they are also practically health food compared to what else you may be eating on Super Bowl Sunday.
Gordon Hamersley can be reached at cookingwithgordon hamersley@gmail.com.
