When Joao Silva e Sousa and Francisco Baptista joined forces, they were clear about their mission. They wanted to make distinctive, affordable bottles that showcase the uniqueness of Portugal’s wine regions. Two of their white wines, along with that of two other producers, underscore why Portuguese pours are growing in popularity and recognition.
Sousa and Baptista spent decades working for large multi-brand wine companies. In their travels, they discovered winegrowers making delicious pours in and around the Douro in northern Portugal. The consultant winemakers decided to create a portfolio of wines crafted from native grapes. The business partners named their project Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas, which translates, romantically, as “full moon in old vineyards.’’ Venerable vines produce a grape that’s enjoying a second life.
A Lua Cheia brand called “Achados e Perdidos’’ (“lost and found’’) showcases codega do larinho, an indigenous grape better known for its inclusion in field blends. Over the years, the varietal has been pushed to the margins given its susceptibility to mildew and tendency toward low acidity. But in the hands of these producers, the large, compact clusters — organically farmed in a 100-year-old vineyard located on a steep, terraced hillside overlooking the Douro River — are thriving. Fermented by wild yeasts in stainless steel, the pour doesn’t lack for tartness, and offers clean mineral notes beneath ripe yellow fruit.
If your impression of Vinho Verde is a one-note quaff with a little injected fizz, Lua Cheia’s Maria Papoila will change your mind about what this regional white can be. Grown in the lush northwest corner of the country, loureiro and alvarinho grapes are gently pressed. The juice then spends time soaking on the skins at cool temperatures. It matures with some lees contact (lees are the yeast cells that fall to the bottom of the vat after fermentation). The lees are not stirred, however, so the texture is rich without being creamy. This no-bubbles wine is mouth-filling and round, demonstrating the serious side of a category often regarded as merely simple.
The talented members of Lua Cheia are not the only ones turning out attention-getting whites. Southwest of the Douro in the wine region of Bairrada near the Atlantic coast, you’ll find the family vineyards of Luis Patrao. There, Patrao crafts an aromatic pour called Vadio from old-vine cercial and arinto grapes. In the same region, fifth-generation winemaker Filipa Pato also works with arinto, but blends it with bical, a varietal that makes well-structured whites, full of fresh peachiness. These artisans achieve results that are exuberantly original and serve as lively selections for the summer table.
With an array of experienced, thoughtful winemakers drawing from more than 250 native varietals, Portuguese wines provide ample opportunity for discovery. We’re looking forward to more pours whose grapes have been “lost’’ then found again.
Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas “Achados e Perdidos’’ Vinho Branco, Douro 2014 Waterfall-fresh on the nose, this delightful pour offers a palate with lively acidity, ripe stone fruit, and mineral. Spread toasted rounds of baguette with chevre and top with summer squash confit. Around $15. At Curtis Liquors, Weymouth, 781-331-2345; Medfield Wine Shoppe, Medfield, 508-359-4097.
Lua Cheia em Vinhas Velhas “Maria Papoila’’ Vinho Verde 2014 Aromatics are clean, slightly tropical, and hint at richness. Ripe and lush, the rounded palate offers nectarine and lemon supported by bright acidity. A natural with Portuguese seafood stew. Around $17. At Solera, Roslindale, 617-469-4005; Medfield Wine Shoppe.
Vadio Branco, Bairrada 2014 Exuberantly scented with sweet citrus and mineral, this lovely pour offers tart green apple, herbs, stones, and saline. Ripe yet precise, pretty in its concentration. Serve with pesto pasta with clams. Around $18. At Savour Wine & Cheese, Gloucester, 978-282-1455; Medfield Wine Shoppe.
Filipa Pato Branco, Bairrada 2015 Full of white blossoms, yellow apple, and lime skin, this peppy pour offers peach, pleasing acidity, and salt spray. Appetizing with chilled farro salad with radish greens and toasted pistachios. Around $15. At Dave’s Fresh Pasta, Somerville, 617-623-0867; Needham Center Fine Wines, Needham, 781-400-1769.
Ellen Bhang can be reached at bytheglass@globe.com.
