Where to Little Donkey, a groovy small plates joint from Coppa and Toro chefs Jamie Bissonnette and Ken Oringer.
What for Eclectic dishes inspired by the duo’s world travels, a raw bar, and edgy cocktails from former Sarma bartender Vikram Hegde.
The scene An unfussy, industrial space with bare walls and big windows overlooking Central Square’s zany parade. Both Bissonnette and Oringer amble through the dining room, greeting guests, while Fitz and the Tantrums blares in the background. Dads in plaid rock babies in strollers; booths of culinary adventurers flirt with the wait staff and order more, more, more. There’s a busy bar scene in the front and an open kitchen in the back — a perfect showcase for mountains of iced seafood. A patio will open later this summer, and they’ll serve breakfast and lunch by summer’s end.
What you’re eating A smorgasbord of charcuterie, hors d’oeuvres, grains and pastas, vegetables, and meat or fish, most in the $15 range. Enjoy BLT lettuce wraps with candy-like lamb bacon, pulpy tomato jam, a swipe of pimento cheese, and wedges of juicy peaches; charred avocados with pomegranate molasses; matzo ball ramen; foie gras with bee pollen; Vietnamese bologna with perfectly crunchy fried squid and tart cabbage; or perhaps a $125 shellfish and “marine life’’ platter. At dessert, opt for an actual beater armed with chocolate chip cookie dough.
Care for a drink? There’s a svelte but muscular cocktail list, with libations like the Mexxology, blending Fernet with iced tea and mint, and the Ode to Pablo, with Mezcal and spicy ginger shrub. There are also $4 cans of Narragansett lager and plenty of well-priced wines.
Overheard Comparisons to Los Angeles; educational aspirations; whispers over aliases. “This place reminds me of Animal in LA. Have you ever been there? The food truck scene is huge,’’ a guy tells his date. A petite older woman and a twinkly-eyed younger gent order with abandon. “I like anything that appeals to a wild palate!’’ the older woman announces, grabbing for a bowl of ramen. “I’m not some broker worried about my place in the world. I’m getting an MBA,’’ her companion declares. “My Starbucks name is Troy,’’ chuckles a fellow at the bar. “Seafood allergy! Seafood allergy!’’ a staffer with an intricate lampshade tattoo shouts toward the open kitchen. A sprightly server appears with a plate of avocado. “Apologies for the wait,’’ he grins. “Tonight, it’s on me.’’
Little Donkey, 505 Massachusetts Ave., Central Square, Cambridge, 617-945-1008, www.littledonkeybos.com
Kara Baskin can be reached at kcbaskin@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter @kcbaskin.
