A general rule of thumb is the less you do to fish when cooking it, the better your results. This technique proves the point. Encasing fish in a salt crust seals in flavor and moisture as it roasts, resulting in incredibly succulent fillets. It looks complicated but, truth told, it is simple to prepare.
This recipe calls for Mediterranean sea bass, also known as branzino, but other whole fish, such as bream, trout, or black bass can be used. Have your fishmonger gut the fish for you but keep the head, tail, and scales on. Rub the skin with oil, fill the cavity with lemon slices and dill (or substitute your favorite herbs), then make sure the cavity is closed to avoid getting salt on the fillets.
Next, use your hands to mix kosher salt with egg whites and work until it feels like damp sand; it should hold its shape if pressed together but still fall apart easily. Use about one-third of the salt mixture to make a bed for the fish on a rimmed baking sheet, place the fish on top, and then mold the remaining mixture around it.
Once it comes out of the oven and cools, use the back of a serving spoon or the handle of a table knife to rap sharply down the center of the crust. When it is cracked, large pieces of salt will pull away. Brush off what is left. Carefully loosen the fish and transfer it to a cutting board to fillet.
Gently remove the skin — it will lift off easily with a fork, or use your fingers. Using a sharp knife or a fish spatula, carefully separate the top fillet from the backbone and transfer to a plate. Slowly pull out the backbone, remove any stray bones, and transfer the bottom fillet to the plate.
Top with a pat of lemon herb butter and serve. When your guests say you shouldn’t have gone to so much trouble, you can keep the truth to yourself.
Valerie Ryan can be reached at valerie.ryan.j@gmail.com