LA MOTTA’S ITALIAN SPECIALTIES

Pitched as a midcentury red-sauce restaurant in the style of Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, La Motta’s serves traditional Old World fare, and a mix of more-modern Mediterranean iterations, in a stylish, cozy setting. (Stars not issued for this review.)1357 Washington St., South End, Boston, 617-338-5300, www. lamottaboston.com (1/27/16)

JANELLE NANOS

DORETTA TAVERNA & RAW BAR

Michael Schlow goes hearty Greek in what was once refined Italian (Via Matta). This time it’s a family affair, a nod to his Greek-American wife’s roots. Warm lights and big art (his wife’s creations) frame classic dishes in modern terms, though uneven mezze veer from thoroughly satisfying to unexpectedly disappointing.(Stars not issued for this review.) 79 Park Plaza, Boston, 617-422-0008, www.dorettaboston.com (1/20/16)

TED WEESNER

THE BALDWIN BAR ???

Ran Duan took over the bar program at his parents’ Woburn restaurant, Sichuan Garden II, in 2009, opening the Baldwin Bar. In October, he added the Baldwin & Sons Trading Company, a soigne upstairs lounge. A cocktail bar inside a Sichuan restaurant inside a historic mansion in the suburbs: unlikely but wonderful. 2 Alfred St., Woburn, 781-935-8488, www.thebaldwinbar.com (12/16/15)

YVONNE’S??½

This used to be Locke-Ober, where politicians and power brokers rubbed elbows over steak dinners. Now it is Yvonne’s, featuring small plates and a sexy atmosphere. It is — once again — the place to be. Well-made cocktails and meaty platters designed for sharing are among the attractions. 2 Winter Place, Downtown Crossing, Boston, 617-267-0047, www.yvonnesboston.com (12/2/15)

WORDEN HALL ??½

The kitchen does many things — from deep-dish pies and deli sandwiches to upscale bistro fare — and does them all well. There are also more than three dozen beers on tap, and even more kinds of whiskey. If you live in South Boston and this isn’t your new regular, you might want to reconsider. 22 West Broadway, South Boston, 617-752-4206, www.wordenhall.com (11/11/15)

COPPERSMITH ½

This used to be the Dahlquist Manufacturing Co., specializing in copper fabrication, and the space is stunning — a vast, open room of brick and pipes and expansive windows, with two food trucks parked permanently within, housing part of the kitchen. There is a roof deck with an Airstream trailer for a bar, and a cafe area. The noise is maximal, the mood festive. But the food — from an overcooked, greasy burger to a half-chicken that looks flayed — needs work. 40 West 3rd St., South Boston, 617-658-3452, www.coppersmithboston.com (11/11/15)

EASTERN STANDARD???

Eastern Standard is a perfect restaurant. Eastern Standard is not a four-star restaurant. So often stars are beside the point. The Kenmore Square institution, now a decade old, is the place to come before or after the game, for an occasion or on a day like any other, with picky or adventurous eaters. But it’s always best to come thirsty, as the bar is one of the best in town. Bone marrow, burgers, and butterscotch pudding go down easy, too. Hotel Commonwealth, 528 Commonwealth Ave., Kenmore Square, Boston, 617-532-9100, www.easternstandard boston.com (11/3/15)

AMULETO MEXICAN TABLE ??

A modern Mexican restaurant, not bogged down by cliché: no mariachi soundtrack, no shtick, just a menu that explores regional cuisine and riffs gently on tradition. There’s a focus on mezcal at the bar. 484 Moody St., Waltham, 781-893-1389, www.amuletorestaurant.com (10/28/15)

STATE PARK ??

Since acclaimed restaurant Hungry Mother closed, “(obnoxious little) sister bar’’ State Park is better than ever. The pinball, jukebox, and menu of Americana remain, but there is renewed focus in the kitchen and a slightly lighter touch at dinner. 1 Kendall Square, Kendall Square, Cambridge, 617-848-4355, www.statepark.is (10/21/15)