WHO IS IN CHARGE The Boat House Grille — formerly the longtime Lewis Restaurant and then the short-lived Castle Kreek Cookhouse — opened in October after being bought and renovated by Corey Matthews.
“I was looking for a second location,’’ said Matthews, owner of the Blue Marlin Grille on the eastern side of Essex. “This wasn’t my prime location, but the deal that ended up in my lap was too good to be true.’’
Matthews described the Blue Marlin as the “Cheers of Essex,’’ with a base of loyal regulars, but said he wanted the Boat House Grille to attract a wider clientele.
“My vision, since we’re close to the beach, was to create something that you would feel comfortable coming in sandals, shorts, and a T-shirt, but also elegant enough to come in a business suit,’’ said Matthews, a Hamilton native who lives in Gloucester.
THE ATMOSPHERE The Boat House opened after getting a much-needed face lift. The blue-gray shake-shingled building is still a period timepiece, but the dining room and bar décor have been upgraded significantly.
Alongside the building is a grounded cabin cruiser, shades of the S.S. Minnow of “Gilligan’s Island.’’ The boat’s contents, said our waitress, were repurposed inside the restaurant. The best use is the sliding wall between the dining and bar areas. The weathered wood and panes of stained glass are attractive, while providing a welcomed buffer.
My wife Lauri and I visited during lunch. Even early on a Saturday, the place was hopping. We got a cozy, two-person booth on the bar side. The room boasts four, wide flat-screen TVs, showing a variety of sporting events, and whimsical adages such as: “Alcohol! Because no great story begins with eating salad.’’
The vibe was friendly, with patrons and bartenders chatting. There are also high-top tables, and a stone fireplace in the dining room, so seating options are impressive.
“That was done on purpose,’’ said Matthews. “We wanted to create different spaces inside this building, so each time you come you can feel like you’re in a different space.’’
ON THE MENU Like the Blue Marlin, the Boat House Grille menu is wide-ranging, with dozens of enticing appetizers, raw bar, salads, soups, sandwiches, and entrees. Any place that offers hot dogs ($8) gets my attention. One particularly intriguing appetizer is the Cold Platter Tower, an enormous collection of oysters, cherrystones, shrimp, king crab, and lobster, with a price to match ($70).
I took a more conventional route with a bowl of haddock chowder ($6). The light, buttery broth could have used more fish, but the flavor was rich. Next up, Lauri and I shared the beet salad ($9), which came on two plates. The servings were so generous we thought our waitress put in two orders, but she assured us that the kitchen staff didn’t like split salads to look skimpy. The leafy arugula, fresh beets, pistachios, and goat cheese with a light lemon dressing served up a big taste as well.
For entrees, Lauri was happy with her Blackened Mahi Fish Tacos ($14 lunch/$18 dinner). Served with Mexican rice, all three tacos had an ample strip of meaty mahi, adorned with lettuce, pico de gallo, avocado, and a nice pineapple aioli. The seasoning might be a shade too salty for some, but it wasn’t overwhelming.
My lone disappointment was choosing the Shipbuilder’s Short Rib sandwich ($12) — short rib, carmelized onion, Swiss cheese, and a horseradish crème fraiche — only to learn it wasn’t available. Undeterred, I ordered the marinated steak tips ($13/$21). The lunch portion had five tender tips (a half pound) in a sweet but understated house marinade, cooked exactly to order (medium, pink but not bloody), and accompanied by butternut squash and mashed potatoes. A basic dish, prepared perfectly.
The dinner menu — with a greater number of specialties, pasta, and seafood plates — also includes a wonderful tip of the hat to its past with throwback prime rib nights in tribute to Lewis’s Friday and Saturday nights. Just plan to get there early.
Boat House Grille, 234 John Wise Ave. (Route 133), Essex. 978-890-5113.
Brion O’Connor can be reached at brionoc@verizon.net.
