I mean this lovingly: I’d like to wear Papa’s Pipe for a night on the town. Maybe just a few drops behind my ears or rubbed into my beard. That’s how intoxicating this stately cocktail at Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar comes across. It’s one of a few drinks at Michael Schlow’s new restaurant that uses traditional Greek spirits such as Rakomelo and Mastiha, the latter of which is flavored by resin from the mastic tree found on the island Chios. A little woodsy but not too sweet, Papa’s Pipe reveals itself in waves: first a hint of tobacco, then vanilla notes, and soft, lingering smokiness.

PAPA’S PIPE

Makes 1 cocktail

¾ ounce barrel-aged rum (such as Diplomático)

¾ ounce vanilla vodka (such as Triple Eight)

¾ ounce Becherovka

¾ ounce Mastiha

½ ounce honey simple syrup (warm equal parts honey and water on the stovetop)

1. In a pint glass filled with ice, add all ingredients and stir.

2. Strain into a Nick & Nora (or coupe) glass. Adapted from Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar

James Reed can be reached at jreedwrites@gmail.com.