Boneless pork loin was once reserved exclusively for weekend dinners, something you made to impress guests. For everyday meals, pork tenderloin was the darling cut. Pork loin is larger and meatier, and takes longer to cook. Pork tenderloin is a quick meal in the skillet or oven. Now, thanks to tenderloin’s popularity, the price is often a good deal higher than the loin, which, in fact, is more flavorful. And it still takes less than an hour to cook.

You want a boneless center-cut loin, which is often wrapped in netting. Snip it off and rub the meat with a mustard-herb coating. Roast it until the meat is still pink. As it rests, the temperature will climb several degrees; slices on the ends will be white and juicy, and others in the middle still pink for guests who prefer rosy meat. If you set it in a cast-iron skillet, it will be easy to stir a white-wine pan sauce later.

Slide a tray of bulbous spring onions, slender carrots, baby Yukon Gold potatoes, and asparagus beside the meat to roast and caramelize. The two should take about the same time. Then slice the loin and surround it with a colorful array. As local gardens bloom, add fresh peas or fava beans, new potatoes, or an assortment of peppers to the mix.

Sheryl Julian can be reached at sheryl.julian@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @sheryljulian.