Serves 4

Many people consider striped bass to be among the best fish in our waters, and though the summer season is short, stripers are in our markets now. The flesh is white but meaty, and because commercial fisheries can only bring in fish that have grown to a certain size, the fillets tend to be thick. That means they stay juicy in the oven or on the grill. Here, the fish is roasted on a bed of zucchini and tomatoes, which get a head start. When the fish goes into the dish, set it skin side up, so the skin can protect the flesh while it cooks.

Olive oil (for sprinkling)

4 medium zucchini, very thinly sliced

4 medium tomatoes or 2 large beefsteak tomatoes, thinly sliced

1 pint mixed yellow and red cherry tomatoes

Salt and pepper, to taste

¼ cup chopped fresh oregano

1½ pounds boneless striped bass (skin intact)

Few sprigs fresh oregano (for garnish)

1. Set the oven at 375 degrees. Oil a deep 9- to 10-inch baking dish.

2. Layer the zucchini and all the tomatoes (large and cherry) in the baking dish, sprinkling the layers with olive oil, salt, pepper, and oregano.

3. Cook the vegetables, uncovered, for 40 minutes or until the zucchini is almost tender when pierced with the tip of a knife.

4. Meanwhile, cut the striped bass into 4 pieces. Sprinkle the fish with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Set it on the vegetables skin side up.

5. Return the dish to the oven and continue cooking, uncovered, for 20 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through and flakes easily.

6. On each of 4 deep plates, spoon vegetables and some of the cooking juices. Add a piece of fish to each plate and garnish with oregano. Sheryl Julian

Sheryl Julian can be reached at sheryl.julian@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @sheryljulian.