Where to Sugidama Soba & Izakaya, a Japanese gastropub tucked into a Davis Square alleyway.
What for Hot and cold noodles, grilled meats on skewers, and plump sushi.
The scene More Zen than Kripalu at dusk. The lights are dim, the décor is minimal, and the chatter is civilized. Muzak plays on a hypnotic loop. A sushi chef methodically slices and dices behind a six-seat sushi counter. Waitresses gather in a corner sipping Starbucks from down the street, bracing for the midday rush.
What you’re eating There’s a large sashimi and sushi menu, and rolls arrive fresh and warm — it takes the mellow sushi chef about 10 minutes to prepare each plate. Most are in the $6 range. There are the usual suspects (yellowtail, tuna, eel), plus Hawaiian sushi pizza (with pineapple) and tuna topped with sliced lemon. Cauldrons of homemade, hot or cold soba — thin buckwheat noodles in a buttery, thick bonito broth — are another draw. Choose from varieties like cooked duck or uni ($16), and spice up the bowl with a thimble of chile powder placed tableside. Yakitori, grilled meat on skewers, rounds out the menu. There are various preparations of chicken, beef, seafood, or pork, all under $7. (Vegetarians can opt for grilled peppers or mushrooms.) Friskier eaters might try tempura squid legs or fried baby octopus ($7 each). For dessert, there’s green tea or red bean ice cream ($3). Thrifty diners, please note: Sugidama currently offers a lunchtime discount.
Care for a drink? Sip melon- or yogurt-flavored Japanese soda ($3), non-alcoholic Kirin beer ($3), hot or iced green tea ($2), or perhaps a Shirley Temple ($2.50). Sugidama hopes to obtain a liquor license soon.
Overheard Boasts, brags, bemoaning of the weather. “I’ve had an advanced palate since birth,’’ proclaims a woman with an angular haircut and exceptionally tight jeans. A waitress nods and gestures toward the menu. “Our grilled squid is very large,’’ she purrs. “I was accepted to Northeastern — twice,’’ a lanky guy tells a pal, lowering himself onto a seat at a corner table. “Yeah, but can you find me a bathroom?’’ his friend asks. An older couple in sneakers and corduroys wanders in from the rain, pauses at the door, and decides to enter. The man looks around approvingly. “The lights here might be warm enough to dry off my jacket,’’ he says, shaking off his soggy windbreaker, flicking water to and fro.
260 Elm St. #106, Davis Square, Somerville, 617-764-5770, www.sugidamasoba.com
Kara Baskin can be reached at kcbaskin@gmail.com. Follow her on Twitter @kcbaskin.
