WHO’S IN CHARGE In the beginning there was a Rocco . . . Rocco DePasquale. He was an Italian immigrant who worked at Regina Pizzeria in the early days and — in 1940 — opened Rocco’s in Wilmington, serving Italian fare.

The restaurant, marking 76 years this July, passed through generations (including a Rocco Jr.) until the family sold it to Joseph Cerquiera and Salvi Couto last May.

“It’s not many times you have a chance to get involved in an institution, which comes with good and bad,’’ said Cerquiera.

Cerquiera, a native of Portugal, was the chef-owner of Atasca in Cambridge, which closed in March [the space was sold to restaurateur Chris Schlesinger]. In Wilmington, Cerquiera made cosmetic improvements to Rocco’s Restaurant & Bar, putting in new booths, new wood-style floors, and a new private dining room. He pared down the menu, but kept the “extremely large’’ portions. So far.

“We do want to change,’’ said Cerquiera. “But yes — it’s a perfect way to put it — [we’re walking] a delicate line.’’

THE LOCALE In a large yellow house, Rocco’s is a go-to neighborhood spot. Three couples were packed into one booth, lingering over conversation. Families arrived with children.

The restaurant features an atrium (Cerquiera wants to redo it so the windows can open) and a main dining room, where a granite bar takes center stage. There are many booths, exposed brick, and a portrait of Rocco Sr., the restaurant’s founder, over a gas-fueled hearth.

“Some stuff you cannot touch,’’ said Cerquiera.

A framed original menu tells of a time when a large cheese pizza was $1.40. (A Margherita pizza is now $15.95.)

The music skewed oldies while well-placed TVs provided a slight distraction, especially as the Red Sox were playing.

ON THE MENU No sooner did we sit down, our server — an energetic woman well versed in the menu — brought warm, crusty bread with herb-seasoned olive oil for dipping.

We tried popular dishes executive chef Fernando Salas tweaked, and dishes he left alone. The Caesar salad ($6.95) was a simple treat of crisp romaine, croutons, shaved Parmesan, and a creamy dressing with a cheesy tang. (Salas’s doing.)

We shared the chicken Marsala ($17.95), one of the first dishes Cerquiera changed.

“We gave it life,’’ said Cerquiera.

A Marsala sauce smothered a platter of thin chicken breasts with mushrooms and prosciutto, the latter giving a salty spunk to the sweet sauce.

The rich red gravy (tomato sauce) and meatballs over the linguine ($13.95) was heavy on the garlic, thanks to Salas’s reinvention.

We were happy with the small, 10-inch Margherita pizza ($8.95), which included pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, and mozzarella. We were even happier with the light, chewy crust.

“We liked it, we kept it,’’ said Cerquiera of the pizza recipes. “I’m a firm believer if it’s not broken, don’t fix it.’’

Cerquiera would like to add Iberian dishes to the menu, all in good time.

The tiramisu was layers of tender cake with whipped cream; almost too light on flavor, it quickly vanished.

If the regular wine list of $6 to $8 glasses is too modest, request the reserve wine list, where Cristal Champagne goes for $350 a bottle.

Rocco’s Restaurant & Bar, 193 Main St., Wilmington. 978-657-7361; www.roccosma.com.

Naomi Kooker can be reached at naomikooker@gmail.com.