The scent of hot dogs, ketchup, and fryer grease perfumed the air above Castle Island on Saturday, as loyalists lined up for their first chance of the year to feast at a neighborhood institution, taking part in a tradition that, as surely as the first daffodils, heralds the end of winter.
“It’s legendary; it’s the rite of spring,’’ said former Boston mayor Ray Flynn, who came to eat half-price hot dogs at Sullivan’s with several generations of his family. “Everyone thinks that’s the Red Sox opening, but really it’s at Sullivan’s.’’
The queue outside the landmark fast-food stand — family owned since its opening in June 1951 — at times stretched 100 deep, as both longtime enthusiasts and newcomers dug into plump hot dogs, juicy cheeseburgers, and buttery lobster rolls.
Kennedy Doyle, 4, said she “loves this place’’ because they serve french fries and ketchup.
She ate with her mother, Mary Beth Doyle; her two siblings; and family dog, Cooper, in the trunk of the family Land Rover.
Big sister Madison, 7, comes for the tuna melt and ice cream. Brother Connor, 10, is a grilled cheese fan.
“I love it,’’ he said, “After it closes, I can’t wait for it to open again.’’
Parents brought not only their children, but in many cases also their parents or grandparents, carrying on a tradition that for many has spanned multiple generations.
“We came with our parents and grandparents back in the ’70s,’’ said Jo O’Connor, 55, of Dorchester. “Now we do it with our children and our grandchildren. My son is a career Marine guy . . . stationed in Virginia, and he makes sure to come home at least once a year to go to Sully’s.’’
Visitors also brought their dogs, from the tiniest chihuahuas to the most enormous mastiffs, with plenty of pugs, poodles, and pomeranians in between.
Lynne Bettencourt, 48, and daughter Alyssa, 20, both of Peabody, brought 2-year-old Zoey, a “beabull’’ — that’s a beagle and bulldog mix — who has been coming to Sully’s since she was a puppy. Zoey seemed to enjoy her hot dog, but she’s not very picky, Lynne Bettencourt said.
“She’ll eat anything.’’
For some, the day brought back treasured memories. Bonnie Fitzgibbon last ate at Sullivan’s with her sister-in-law last year, shortly before her death.
“Her dad worked at the shipyard and they lived [in South Boston] for a long time. It brought back a lot of memories for her,’’ said Fitzgibbon, 53, of Westford, who perched near the concession stand with her friend and children.
“Now, we just gotta think spring,’’ she said. “We got hot dogs, burgers, clams, onion rings, the ice cream — all of it.’’
The spot is also special to Robert “Sully’’ Sullivan, who is not related to the family that owns the stand.
“I got sober here 26 years ago,’’ he said in between bites of a Sullivan’s hot dog.
In an effort to avoid friends or people from his church, the 65-year-old Roslindale resident attended Alcoholics Anonymous at St. Brigid’s Parish in South Boston. After the meetings, he said, he would walk around Castle Island to clear his head and of course, grab a hot dog on the way.
“It’s always been the hot dog for me. Every free moment I get. I just can’t get enough,’’ he said. “I’m a grateful, lucky guy.’’
Even Boston police couldn’t resist the lure of Sullivan’s, posting on Twitter, “For the last 67 years, no day says spring is on the way better than #OpeningDay @sullydogs on #CastleIsland!!!’’ with a photo of officers lined up outside the stand.
But not all Sullivan’s fans have been so law abiding.
“I used to see Whitey Bulger around here every once and a while,’’ said Mary Kiernan, who is in her 70s and has been a fan of Sullivan’s since its early days.
On Saturday she brought her shih tzu, Abbie.
“I usually get a cheeseburger,’’ Kiernan said. “Abbie gets a hot dog. You can’t get a spot this good in the city. For this kind of money, you can’t beat it.’’
Jeremy C. Fox can be reached at jeremy.fox@globe.com. Follow him on Twitter @jeremycfox. Samanthat Gross can be reached at samantha.gross@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @samanthajgross.
