Serves 4

These cauliflower “steaks’’ with Indian-inspired spices bring warmth and bold flavor to the table, a welcome addition to the home cook’s menu as winter wears on with dwindling vegetable choices in the market. For a refreshing contrast, serve with cooling cucumber raita.

CAULIFLOWER

Vegetable oil (for the baking sheet)

1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, finely chopped

2 teaspoons crushed coriander seeds

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Pinch of Aleppo pepper, to taste

1 large head cauliflower

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper, to taste

1. Set the oven at 450 degrees. Oil a rimmed baking sheet.

2. In a small bowl, mix together the ginger, coriander, cumin, turmeric, and Aleppo pepper.

3. With a large knife, trim the stem end of the cauliflower. Remove the leaves. Stand the cauliflower upright on the stem end. Trim two sides of the head from the top to the base to make them flat. Cut the cauliflower, top to base, into ¾-inch-thick “steaks.’’ Set them on the baking sheet. Set errant cauliflower florets on the pan, too.

4. Brush the tops and sides of the slices with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the spices. Gently pat the steaks with your hands to spread the spices evenly. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, or until tender and golden brown. Transfer to a serving platter.

RAITA

1 cup plain whole milk yogurt

1 Armenian cucumber, coarsely grated

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon crushed coriander seeds

Salt and pepper, to taste

Extra cilantro leaves (for garnish)

1. In a bowl, whisk the yogurt until smooth. Stir in the cucumber, cilantro, crushed coriander, and salt and pepper to taste.

2. Sprinkle the cauliflower with cilantro leaves, and serve with the raita. Sally Pasley Vargas

Sally Pasley Vargas can be reached at sally.p.vargas@gmail.com.