WHO’S IN CHARGE Paul of the Wahlberg acting family heads the Wahlburgers empire. Paul grew up helping his mother, Alma, cook Sunday dinners for her family of nine in Dorchester.
Working in kitchens since high school, he did stints at hotels, including Four Seasons. He first became a chef at the former Crane Brook Restaurant and Tea Room in Carver, where he learned what it was like to own a restaurant.
“[Wahlburgers] dishes are inspired by our childhood growing up in Dorchester,’’ said Wahlberg. “I really wanted to tell the story of who we are and where we came from.’’ He likes the simplicity of burgers. His mother’s macaroni salad is on the menu.
“Not only was building the concept a labor of love for me, but it was for my brothers as well,’’ Wahlberg said. “Mark, in particular, is very much a businessman, so he focuses a lot on our expansion plans.’’
The goal is to please customers.
“At the end of the day, I really want them to have a good time,’’ Wahlberg said. “I want to make them happy and have them leave with smiles on their faces.’’
THE LOCALE The first Wahlburgers opened in Hingham in 2011, and there are now locations in several states and Canada with expansion in the works. The one we visited is tucked into a corner of the very congested MarketStreet Lynnfield shopping complex.
The dining room has a modern industrial feel. The ceiling reveals exposed pipes and ducts. Hanging metal sheets diffuse the lighting. Cutouts in the metal include the names of Donnie’s and Mark’s acting and music credits.
Bright spring green accents the chairs and menus. Over the long bar against an exterior wall, TV monitors show looped excerpts from the family’s reality show, which is based on the restaurant.
Place mats show a collage of Dorchester sites and a closeup of the Wahlbergs’ childhood home (a yellow triple-decker with black medallions on the porch columns).
ON THE MENU Our friends, Dawn and Anthony, raved about Wahlburgers’ food, so we had to visit.
We were greeted by our waitress Eileen and her trainee, Lauren, who broke the ice by talking about . . . the Wahlbergs. We had just missed Donnie, who had stopped in for a bite.
The Melt ($9), featuring a burger, buttered toasted bread, fried onions, and pickles, was a nice combo with “government cheese’’ (American). Although tasty, it was hard to pick out individual flavors. The pickle was nicely crunchy.
Mom’s Sloppy Joe ($8.50) had a fruity, piquant sauce. It wasn’t super big, but just the right amount.
My husband selected Donnie’s Fave BBQ Bacon Burger ($8.25). He found the sauce very nice with a unique tang to it. The cheddar cheese had a noteworthy flavor and the jalapeños the right bite.
We went wild on the sides. With soft centers, the Tater Tots ($3.35) had a thick crunch that enhanced the taste and experience. In contrast, the Sweet Potato Tots ($3.35) were not crunchy but had a wonderful, soft interior.
The onion rings ($3.25) were sliced very thin and curly. Served in a big portion, they had just the right amount of saltiness with a hint of pepper.
Alma’s Classic Macaroni ($4) surprised us pleasantly with an abundance of pepper.
The fare is your basic comfort food. We enjoyed it, but be warned: It is salty. We’ll be back.
Wahlburgers, 600 Market St., Lynnfield. 781-334-2560; www.wahlburgerslynnfield.com
Diane Severin can be reached at dianeandthebees@comcast.net.
