Serves 4

Thin slices of sweet-and-sour cucumber pickle provide a refreshing and crisp counterpoint to savory, miso-coated grilled tuna. Long ago, Japanese cooks discovered that marinating fish in miso, a fermented bean paste, preserved and tenderized it, while complementing its briny flavor. It was a staple in Japanese households before refrigeration, and is still a popular dish. Miso is available in several varieties, but the light or “white’’ miso is the least salty and best used in marinades, dressings, and soups. Tightly sealed, it will keep refrigerated for up to a year, but it’s a good idea to check the best-by date.

CUCUMBERS

1 cup unseasoned rice vinegar

1 cup sugar

1 piece (1½ inches) fresh ginger, finely chopped

1 teaspoon salt

2 English or 6 mini seedless cucumbers, about 14 ounces

1. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the rice vinegar, sugar, chopped ginger, and salt.

2. Trim the ends of the cucumbers and halve them lengthwise. Using a spoon, scrape the seeds out of the English cucumber. Cut the cucumbers diagonally into thin slices. Transfer to a mixing bowl and stir in the dressing. Toss to coat and refrigerate for 2 hours, or overnight, if you have the time.

TUNA

? cup white miso paste (miso shiro)

? cup rice wine or sake

1 piece (1 inch) fresh ginger, finely chopped

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon sesame oil

4 (8 ounce) tuna steaks, about 1 inch thick

3 tablespoons olive oil (for oiling the grill)

1 scallion, chopped (for garnish)

1. In a mixing bowl large enough to hold the tuna, mix together the miso paste, rice wine, chopped ginger, lemon juice, sugar, and sesame oil.

2. Add the tuna to the miso paste and mix to coat. Let sit 30 minutes.

3. Brush the grill racks generously with the olive oil. Prepare a charcoal grill or turn on a gas grill to medium.

4. Arrange the fish steaks on the grill and cook for 3 minutes per side for rare or 1 minute more per side for medium rare.

5. Arrange the cooked tuna on four individual plates and spoon the sweet-and-sour cucumber slices on the side with some of the marinade. Sprinkle the top with the chopped scallions. Nina Simonds

Nina Simonds can be reached at spoonfulofginger@gmail.com.