Lush and spreadable in a wrinkly rind, a disk of St. Albans from Vermont Creamery comes in a ceramic crock and turns runny, like fondue, when you warm it ($7.99 to $9.99 for 2.82 ounces). The aged cow’s milk cheese is modeled after the small, round French Saint-Marcellin, and takes its name from St. Albans Cooperative, the Vermont producer that supplies milk to the creamery. The pungent, oozy, melted cheese is perfect for dunking hunks of crusty bread, slices of apple, or vegetables, and it is thick enough to cling to anything you might want to dip. Available at Bacco’s Wine + Cheese, 31 St. James Ave., Boston, 617-574-1751; American Provisions, 613 E. Broadway, South Boston, 617-269-6100; Dave’s Fresh Pasta, 81 Holland St. Somerville, 617-623-0867; Whole Foods Market, selected locations. www.vermont creamery.com. ANN TRIEGER KURLAND

Ann Trieger Kurland can be reached at atrieger@comcast.net.