Print      
Royal Robbins; rock climber set standards
Mr. Robbins and his wife, Liz, posed for a photo at the summit of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park after she became the world’s first woman to climb it. (Robbins family)
Mr. Robbins also founded a line of outdoor clothing that bears his name. (Modesto Bee via AP/file 2009)
By Kristin J. Bender
Associated Press

SAN FRANCISCO — Rock climbing icon Royal Robbins, who founded the outdoor clothing company bearing his name, died Tuesday at his home in Modesto, Calif., after a long illness, the company’s chief executive said. He was 82.

‘‘Royal was a legendary pioneer who approached everything in life with a true spirit of adventure,’’ said CEO Michael Millenacker. ‘‘He taught me to work with purpose — that the harder we worked, the more we could give back.’’

Mr. Robbins was part of the Golden Age of Yosemite, from roughly 1955 to 1970, when a vagabond group of climbers lived in Yosemite and devoted their lives to climbing. They claimed a number of first ascents that were once deemed impossible, including El Capitan and Half Dome.

He was also a major promoter of clean climbing techniques and equipment to avoid rock damage.

‘‘I think that he set the rules for the game of climbing and he believed in the rules of the game. The lives of those of us who climbed were enriched by Royal’s insistence on getting the rules right,’’ said Daniel Duane, who has written three books about climbing, including one on Mr. Robbins. ‘‘If it hadn’t been for Royal, all those cliffs would be a total mess.’’

American rock climber Alex Honnold posted a message about Mr. Robbins’s death on Twitter. ‘‘He was a big inspiration to me personally with his emphasis on adventure and his clean, simple climbing style. What a legend. He lived with grace all the way through a long and full life. Something we can all aspire to.’’

In 1967, Mr. Robbins and his wife, Liz, made the first ascent of the Nutcracker route in the Yosemite Valley using only removable gear for protection. It was the first climb of its kind in the United States. Afterward, Mr. Robbins published a seminal article in Summit magazine in which he advocated using removable protection rather than damaging pitons into the granite cracks. It was the first climb of its kind in the nation and helped fuel the clean climbing movement.

Also that year, he and his wife climbed Half Dome on the 10th anniversary of his first ascent, making her the first woman to climb the famous formation and the first in the world to climb an aid route of that difficulty. His first ascents include El Capitan’s Salathe Wall and North American Wall and Chamonix’s American Direct on the Dru.

Royal Robbins climbed well into his 70s, friends said.

He was also known for his adventure kayaking.

A prolific author, he wrote instruction manuals ‘‘Rockcraft’’ and ‘‘Advanced Rockcraft,’’ providing climbers with the only manual available at the time to learn climbing ethics that respected the rock. His three-part autobiographical series, ‘‘My Life: Royal Robbins,’’ details his journey from rebellious youth in Los Angeles to Yosemite’s Camp 4.

In 1968, the couple founded Royal Robbins, an active lifestyle apparel company for climbers, adventurers, and travelers.

“With tremendous class and a huge heart, he taught me so many the valuable lessons about conviction and grit,’’ Millenacker said. “Every time I saw him walk into a room, you could feel a shift, as if everyone knew they were in the presence of greatness.’’