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Seeing the city in the ‘Moonlight’
Alex Hibbert and Mahershala Ali in a scene from Oscar winner “Moonlight.’’ (David Bornfriend)
A scene from “Moonlight’’ shot in Jimmy’s Eastside Diner. (David Bornfriend/A24)
By Christopher Muther
Globe Staff

MIAMI — Beyond the singing, dancing, and Ryan Gosling’s pulchritudinous glances, “La La Land’’ was, first and foremost, a big wet sloppy kiss to Los Angeles. The movie made the city look postcard perfect, even to those who have a habit of turning up their noses at it. Traffic? Time for an elaborate choreographed dance number!

But another movie paid homage to a city in a more believable way. “Moonlight,’’ the film that won best picture after some flummoxed folks at PricewaterhouseCoopers sorted out their envelopes, showed Miami without showboating, glitter, or extraneous tap dancing.

If you haven’t seen “Moonlight,’’ please stop here because many spoilers are ahead. Also, you should stop and watch because it’s an absolutely beautiful and stirring coming-of-age drama that was deserving of its Oscar win, even if Faye Dunaway led you to believe otherwise. You can find the film on DVD if you missed it in the theater.

Unlike “La La Land,’’ “Moonlight’’ isn’t all postcard and posturing. It’s a brutal look at growing up facing a skyscraper of adversity. But through the eyes of cinematographer James Laxton, Miami’s colors are sun-bleached and woozy. Its appeal is in its quiet subtlety. Quiet and subtle are adjectives that are seldom employed to describe Miami.

I visited Miami last month and decided to seek out some of the key locations used in the film.

In the movie’s penultimate scene, Kevin (André Holland) finishes his shift as a cook at Jimmy’s Eastside Diner, and proceeds to lovingly make soul food for Chiron (Trevante Rhodes). It’s a scene that Bon Appétit described as “One of the best food scenes of the year.’’ If you go to Jimmy’s you’ll find the same Tiffany-inspired hanging fixtures, diner stools, and vinyl booths, but you won’t find the movie’s famous arroz con pollo on the menu. You will, however, find some amazing blueberry pancakes.

“Have you noticed the line has been longer ever since the movie came out?’’ a man said to his companion in line behind me at Jimmy’s on a recent Sunday morning.

Naturally I turned around to get the details. These gents have been coming for Jimmy’s for years, but they said that they rarely experienced an out-the-door Sunday morning wait. Thanks to the movie (there’s a “Moonlight’’ poster displayed proudly in the window), the diner has found a new audience.

Was it worth the wait? Absolutely.

Jimmy’s, which is located in what was once a particularly seedy section of Biscayne Boulevard, has a full breakfast and lunch menu. In addition to the pancakes, I’d recommend traditional favorites such as the meatloaf or a BLT.

7201 Biscayne Blvd., Miami, 305-754-3692.

Virginia Key State Park

One of the most touching moments of “Moonlight’’ was when drug dealer/father figure Juan (Mahershala Ali) takes young Chiron (Alex Hibbert) to the beach to teach him to swim. The location is Virginia Key State beach, an 82-acre barrier island that belongs to the city of Miami. Virginia Key was opened in 1945 as a beach designated for African Americans when swimming was strictly segregated. It became a popular destination thanks to a carousel and a miniature train that runs throughout the beach, along with pavilions and picnic areas. It was a safe space, crowded with social gatherings and religious services.

It’s now an import historical location, and also an inviting, family-friendly spot. The carousel and the miniature train have been lovingly restored. The day I visited there was a wedding taking place near the enticing water and families were enjoying the barbecue grills and the playground. It was a nice change of pace from slick South Beach.

Historic Virginia Key Beach Park, 4020 Virginia Beach Drive, Miami, (305) 960-4600. Weekdays, $6. Weekends and holidays, $8

South Beach

The pivotal scene where teenage Chiron (Ashton Sanders) and Kevin (Jharrel Jerome) share a kiss, and then a bit more, was shot on Miami’s best known beach. I don’t recommend recreating all the activities that Chiron and Kevin tried during that scene of the film on a public beach, but I do recommend going for a walk or a run along South Beach’s boardwalk to enjoy the scenery and the people watching. It’s a nice break from sunning yourself, or perhaps a chance to walk off the many, many mojitos you’ve enjoyed a bit too much by the pool of your hotel.

Christopher Muther can be reached at muther@globe.com. Follow him on Twitter @Chris_Muther